It is widely used in medicine as an antifibrinolytic, inhibiting plasmin. In cosmetics, it reduces pigmentation by inhibiting melanin synthesis and acting as an anti-inflammatory. It also decreases vascularization, commonly increased in hyperpigmentation. When combined with niacinamide, it forms a powerful anti-blemish treatment, especially effective against pigmentations such as melasma and post-inflammatory.
In sunspots, it acts as an anti-inflammatory and reduces the transfer of pigment to the keratinocyte, limiting its accumulation in epidermal cells. In age spots, it decreases lipofuscin deposits, preventing their accumulation and improving their elimination. It acts as an antioxidant, and improves the skin barrier by stimulating the formation of new ceramides and reducing transepidermal water loss, improving the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
It is a very stable form of vitamin C, widely known for its antioxidant action and for its stimulating effect on collagen synthesis, promoting the reduction of fine wrinkles. In hyperpigmentations, the synthesis of new melanin decreases, inhibiting tyrosinase.
Glycyrrhetinic acid, rich in glabridin and glycyrrhizin. Derived from licorice root, it is used in traditional Chinese medicine. It has an anti-inflammatory effect, by inhibiting COX-2, reducing the production of inflammatory mediators such as prostaglandins. It decreases the formation of new melanin.
It acts on spots caused by melanin (sunspots) and lipofuscin (age spots). It contains extract of Swiss garden cress buds, rich in sulforaphane; and genistein, the active form of soy isoflavone. Sulforaphane is a second-generation antioxidant, capable of regenerating antioxidants and neutralizing free radicals. It inhibits the accumulation of lipofuscin in the skin by activating the proteasome, the very cellular cleansing system that degrades oxidized proteins, preventing their accumulation. It also inhibits melanin formation, by inhibiting the alpha-MSH pathway, which stimulates the melanocyte. Genistein inhibits the enzyme tyrosinase, inhibiting the formation of new melanin. It evens out skin tone, blending sunspots more than those around it.
It is composed of mitracarpus leaf extract and grape ursi (bearberry) extract. It has anti-inflammatory and antioxidant action, with a powerful anti-blemish effect due to the inhibition of the tyrosinase enzyme.